Sewing machine



March 2 1926.

A. B. FOWLER' snwnw momma Original ile 21, 1920 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 March2,1926. 1,575,111

A. B. FOWLER 1 SEWING MACHINE inal Filed 0st. 21, 1920 2 Sheets-Sheet 2lion M Patented Mar. 2, 1926.

Armani) B. FowLE -t, or BEVERLY, MASSACH'USE mc 3-K):

ASSIGEQ'OE 'lO UNITED SHOE MACHINERY CORPORATION, OF PATERSON, NEWJERSEY, A CORPORATION OF NEW JERSEY SEWING MACHINE.

Application filed October 21, 1920, Serial No. 418,450. Renewed March28, 1924.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, ALFRED B. Fowilnjn, a citizen of the United States,residing at Beverly, in the county of Essex and State of Massachusetts,have invented certain new and useful Improvements in, Sewing Ma chines;and I do hereby declare the following to be a full, clear, and exactdescription of the invention, such as will enable others skillediin. theart to which it appertains to make and use the same.

The present invention relates to sewing machines, and more particularlyto wax thread chain stitch inseam shoe sewing machines, although certainfeatures of the in. vention are applicable to other types of sewingmachines.

In the operation of sewing machines, and particularly wax thread chainstitch inseam shoe sewing machines, it has been found that the stitchsetting strain which must be exerted on the thread to produce the bestresults varies with the speed atwhich the machine is operated, a heavierstitch setting strain ordinarily being required to produce a tight seamwhen the machine isoperated at a low speed than when'the machine isoperated at a high speed.

An object of the present invention is to provide means of novel andimproved construction and mode of operation for thus regulating thestitch setting strain exerted on the thread upon a variation in thespeed of the machine. I i V Another object of the invention is toprovide a novel and improved take-up mechanism which is particularlyadapted for use on inseam shoe sewing machines.

Vith these and other objects in view the features of the inventionconsist in certain constructions, arrangements, and combinations ofparts hereinafter described and claimed, the advantages of which will beobvious to those skilled in the art.

The several features .of the invention will be clearly understood fromthe following description and accompanying drawings, in which:

Figure 1 is a front elemtion'of the head their preferred form; and Fig.2 is a side elevation on an enlarged scale of a portion of the head ofthe machine with a side of the casing removed.

The sewing machine illustrated in the drawings is provided with a curvedhook needle 2, a needle carrier i, a looper 6, a thread arm 8, a backgage 10, a back rest or hunter 12, and a thread tensioning devicecomprising a tension wheel 1%. The ma.- chine is also provided with ahigh speed driving mechanism comprising a pulley 16 mounted on thedriving shaft 18 of the machine and a low speed driving mechanismcomprising a worm wheel 20 mounted on the driving shaft. The high speeddriving mechanism is thrown in upon the depression of a rod 22 connectedwith treadle mechanism at the base of the machine, and is thrown out andthe low speed driving mechanism is thrown in upon the rodbeing released.The rod 22 is connectedwith the driving mechanisms through an arm 2%secured to one end of a rock shaft 26 that carries a forked arm 28engaging a clutch sleeve 30 mounted to slide on. and rotate with thedriving shaft 18. When the treadle rod 22 is released to throw out thehigh. speed latch lever 3% pivoted on the frame of the machine. At apredetermined point in the rotation of the driving shaft after the lowspeed driving mechanism is thus thrown in, the latch lever 34 isreleased from the stop lug 32 by a cam carried by the driving shaftallowing the arm 2%. to be further carried upwardly by its spring whichshifts the clutch sleeve 30 into position so that upon the completion ofa predetermined number of 6 ines of rotation of the driving shaft af .rthe latch lever 3 1- is released, the low speed driving mechanism isthrown out, and stopping devices act to stop the sh: ft in apredetermined angular position. In sewing about the toe of a pointed toeshoe, it is desirable that the machine shall be run at a uniformly lowspeed, and it will be apparent that this may be accomplished in theillustrated machine by the operator releasing the treadle rod 22 onlysufficiently to throw in the low speed driving mechanism withoutrendering the stopping devices of the machine active, and that uponagain depressing the treadle rod 22 the driving mechanism may be shiftedback to high speed. The parts above described may be and preferably arethe same as the corresponding parts of the machine illustrated anddescribed in applicants copending application Serial No. 298,589, tiledMay 21, 1919, to which reference may be had for a full and completedescription of the same.

The illustrated machine is provided with a main take-up and an auxiliarytake-up which are of simple and improved construction The main take-upcomprises a thread truck 36 mounted on the free end of an arm 38projecting from a sleeve 40 which is loosely mounted on a stud shaft 4:2secured to the frame of the machine. The main take-up is actuated by anarm 4L4: projecting upwardly from the sleeve 40 and having its free endpivotally connected with a cam actuated link 46. The auxiliary take-upwhich is interpcsed between the main take-up and the tension wheel 14comprises a thread truck 48 mounted on the free end of an arm 50projecting from a sleeve 52 which is loosely mounted on the sleeve 40 ofthe main takeup. A coiled spring 5% is connected with the auxiliarytake-up arm 50 which tends to raise the arm until a projection thereonabuts against the lower end of an abutment screw 56, which may beadjusted and locked in any desired position of adjustment by a lock nut.The thread passes from the tension wheel over the thread truck 4L8,beneath a thread truck 58 loosely mounted on the auxiliary take-upsleeve 52, over the thread truck 86, and thence through the looper tothe work.

The thread handling devices of the machine illustrated in the drawingsare so ar ranged and operated that the main take-up acts to exert astitch setting strain on the seam and draw oft thread for the next loopfrom the tension wheel when the needle is in its forward position andextended through the work, The main take-up then falls during the threadmeasuring movement of the thread arm, during the looping movement of thelooper, and during the first part of the loop drawing movement of theneedle. As the needle nears the limit of its loop drawing movement, itexerts a pull on the thread to tighten the preceding loop, such pullmoving the auxiliary take-up arm 50 away from the abutment screw 56 andplacing the auxiliary tension spring 54- under tension. To render theaction of the main take-up, the auxiliary take-up and the needlereliable and uniform under all conditions of sewing, means are providedin the illustrated machine which insure that the pull exerted uponthe'thread by the needle as it reaches the limit of its backwardmovement shall always be against the resistance offered by the auxiliarytension spring 5% and not against the resistance offered by the tensionwheel 14:. To secure this result the needle carrier 4: is provided witha cam surface 60 to cooperate with the end of an arm 62 projecting fromthe auxiliary take-up sleeve 52. The cam surface 60 acts to positivelyraise the auxiliary take-up and to hold the auxiliary take-up in raisedposition during the action of the main take-up in setting the stitch, sothat during the latter portion of the taking-up action of the maintake-up, the auxiliary take up is practically locked in the position inwhich the arm 50 of the auxiliary take-up is nearly in contact with theabutment screw 56. As the main take-up moves to give up thread, however,the needle carrier during its retracting movement moves the cam surface60 away from the path of the end of the arm 62, leaving the auxiliarytake-up free to be moved against the tension of its spring 54, so thatwhen the needle exerts a pull on the thread during the latter part ofits retracting move ment. the auxiliary take-up can yield to therequired extent without bringing up against a positive stop so as tocause any strain to be exerted on the thread in addition to that causedby the spring 5% of the auxiliary takeup.

In the machine disclosed in applicants co-pending application,hereinbefore referred to, the main take-up is located between theauxiliary take-up and the tension wheel. and it has been found that withsuch arrangement of these devices there is danger of the main take-upnot properly acting on the stretch of thread extending over theauxiliary take-up to the work. By locating the main take-up between theauxiliary take-up and the work so that the thread extends directly fromthe main take-up to the iooper, as in the present construction, it willbe apparent that the above described disadvantage of said priorconstruction is entirely overcome.

In order to increase the tension exerted on the thread upon a decreasein the speed of the machine to obtain the-desired uniformity in thetightness of the stitch irrespective of the speed of the machine, it hasheretofore been proposed to increase the tension of the threadtensioning device. In such prior constructions, the take-up mechanism isso constructed that the stitch tightening strain exerted on the threadboth while the needle is in its forward position and during theretracting movement of the needle is against the tensionof; the threadtensioning device, Itwill be apparent, however, that in a construction,such as thatv illustrated. in the drawings, in which the tensionexertedv on the, thread during the retracting movement of the needle isagainst. the tension. of the auxiliary take up spring and not, against.the tension of the thread tensioning device,

that a variation in-the tension of the thread tensioning device wouldnoteffect. the stitch.

tightening strainexerted on the thread during the retracting movement oftheneedle.

Moreover, applicant has found that by suit-- ably increasing the strainexerted onthe thread during the retracting movementof;

the needle upon a decrease in the speed of. the machine, that thedesired uniform tightness of stitch maybe obtained without the necessityof varying, the stitch thread tensioning device to be uniform at.

all times, which ensures that the main takeup in drawing thread from thesupply and exerting a stitch tightening strain on I the thread while theneedle is in. its forward position will be certain and reliable inoperation and of uniform effectiveness.

The outer end of the auxiliary take-up spring 54 is connected Withthefree end of. an arm 64 secured to one end of arock shaft An a m 68 issecured to the other end of the rock.

66 mounted in the machine frame.

shaft 66 and its free end extends into position to be engagedby theupper end of. a rod 7 0, the lower endyof which rod is pivot allyconnected with the free end of the arm 24. \Vith this constructionitwill be apparent from an inspectionof-the drawings that upon releasingthe treadle rod 22 su;f-. ficiently to shift from the high to thelowspeed driving .mechanism, the upward movement of the arm 24 will actthrough the rod andarm 68' to raise the arm 64 and thereby increase thetension of the:

auxiliary take-up spring 54, and thatupon again depressing the rod 22 toshift back, tov

the high speed driving mechanism the arm 68 will be released, allowingthe arm 64 to return to its normal position to relieve the. tension ofthe auxiliary take-up spring 54,. this movement of the arm. 64. beinglimited by an adjustable abutment screw 72 on the arm engaging themachine frame.

Vhileit, is preferred to employ the specific construction andarrangement of parts il-' lustratedand described, it isto be understood.that this construction and arrangement isnot e sential x ep so f r specified'in the claims, and may be changed or modified. without Ideparting from the broader. features. of the invention.-

The nature and scope of the present invention, having. been. indicated.and a machine embodying the several features of the invention in: he rpr fe re r h v g been specifica ly des ibed, hat is la e s= 1. A shoesewing machine having, in com bination, s itch forming de ice in ludinga hook needle, a needle carrier, a main takeup, n uxiliary takep, and.means p ated by the needle carrier. for raising the auxiliary take-upagainst the strain of the thread during the taking-up stroke of, said.main. take-up and. for holding said aux? iliary' take-up; raised duringthe remainder of. the. taking-up stroke.

2;. A chain stitch; shoe sewing machine having, in combination, a hookneedle, a. looper, a; take-up acting to exert a stitch setting strain onthe thread while the needle is in. the OIk, t t, spring pressedauxiliary takerup, located; at the opposit side of the main take-up fromthe WOl'k, .a stop to limit hoo needlemaini take-up, an auxiliarytake-up, a spring normallytending to move said; auxiliary take-up in onedirection, and eans c mprising; a eedle ca ier or actuat ng:- the-needeand for inovings d auxiliary t ke np a p edetermi ed dis nce i thedirection of movement thereof by said spring; during the taking-upstroke of the main. take-up...

4;. A chain stitch shoe sewing machine having, in combination, a hookneedle, a.

looper, a thread tension-lug device, a main takerup acting to exert astitch setting strain on the thread while the needle is in thework andto pull thread from said. tensioning. device, a spring pressed auxiliarytake? up'interposed between the maintake-up and said tensioning device,a stop to limit the yielding movement of the auxiliary takeup underthestra'in exerted on the thread by the main take-up, and means formoving the stop during each cycle of operations to permit a greateryielding movement under the strain exerted on the thread by the needle.I

5. A chain stitch shoe sewing machine having, in combination, ahookneedle, a looper, a main take-up. acting to exert a stitch settingstrain on the thread while the needle is in the work, aspring pressedauxing iliary take-up, and a needle carrier constructed and arranged tolimit the yielding movement of the auxiliary take-up under the strainexerted on the thread by the main take-up during the forward movement ofthe needle and to release the auxiliary takeup to permit a greateryielding movement thereof under the strain exerted on the thread by theneedle during the retracting movement of the needle.

6. A sewing machine having, in combination, a high speed drivingmechanism, a low speed driving mechanism, stitch form ing devicesincluding a needle, means cooperating with the needle to exert a strainon the thread during the retracting movement of the needle, and meansfor shifting from the high to the low speed driving mechanism and forsimultaneously varying the effectiveness of said means for exerting astrain on the thread.

7. A sewing machine having, in combination, a high speed drivingmechanism, a low speed driving mechanism, stitch tormdevices, means forexerting a strain on the thread, and means for shifting from the high-tothe low speed driving mechanisms and for simultaneously varying theeffectiveness of said means for exerting a strain on the thread.

8. A sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming devices, amain takeup, an auxiliary take-up, a spring for actuating the auxiliarytake-up, and means acting simultaneously with a variation in the speedof the machine for varying the tension of said spring.

9. A sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming devices, athread tensionmg devlce, a take-up mechanism for drawing thread from thetensioning device, to set the stitch and to give up thread to the stitchforming devices, and means acting simultaneously with a reduction in thespeed of the machine for varying the action of the take-up mechanismwhile the action of the tensioning device remains unchanged.

10. A sewing machine having, in combination, stitch :t'orming devices, amain takeup, an auxiliary take-up, a spring for actuating the auxiliarytake-up, and treadle controllable means for varying the tension of saidspring during the operation of the machine.

11. A sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming devices, atake-up, a spring for moving the take-up in one direction to place astrain on the thread, and means acting simultaneously with a reductionin the speed of the machine for increasing the tension of said spring.

12. A sewing machine having, in combination, a take-up mechanismcomprising a pivoted arm, a spring tending to move the Brill in thedirection to place a strain on the thread, and means actingsimultaneously with a variation in the speed of the machine for varyingthe tension of the spring.

13. A sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming devices, amain takeup mechanism for exerting a stitch setting strain on the threadwhile the needle is in the work, an auxiliary take-up mechanism forexerting a strain on the thread during the retracting movement of theneedle, and means acting simultaneously with a reduction in the speed ofthe machine for adjusting the auxiliary take-up mechanism to increasethe strain thereby exerted on the thread.

lei. A sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming devices, athread tensioning device, a takeup mechanism for exerting a strain onthe thread, and means acting independently of said tensioning devicesimultaneously with a variation in the speed of the machine for varyingthe effectiveness of the take-up mechanism.

15. A sewing machine having, in com-- bination, stitch forming devices,a thread Lensioning device, means for exerting a strain on the thread,and means acting simultaneously with a variation in the speed ot themachine for varying the amount of sa d strain independently of thethread tensioning means.

161A sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming devices, amain take-up for exerting a stitch setting strain 011 the thread whilethe needle is in its advanced position, an auxiliary take-up tocooperate with the needle to exert a strain on the thread during theretracting movement of the needle, and means acting simultaneously witha variation in the speed of the machine for adjusting one of saidtakeups to vary the effectiveness thereof while the operation of theother take-up remains constant.

17. A sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming devices, atake-up mechanism for exerting a stitch setting strain on the threadwhile the needle is in its advanced position and to cooperate with theneedle to exert a strain on the thread during the retracting movement ofthe needle, and means for adjusting said mechanism upon a variation inthe speed of the machine to vary the strain exerted on the thread duringthe retracting movement of the needle while the stitch setting strainexerted on the thread when. the needle is in its advanced positionremains constant.

18. A sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming devices, athread tensioning device, a take-up mechanism interposed between thethread tensioning device and the stitch forming devices for exerting astrain on the thread during the loop drawing movement of the needle, andmeans actmg simultaneously with a variation in the speed of the machinefor adjusting the take-up mechanism independently of the threadtensioning device to vary the strain exerted on the thread.

19. A sewing machine having, in combination, a thread tensioning device,a main take-up for exerting a stitch setting strain on the thread whilethe needle is in its advanced position, an auxiliary take-up interposedbetween the main take-up and said tensioning device for exerting astrain on the thread during the loop drawing move ment of the needle,andmeans acting simultaneously with a variation in the speed of themachine for adjusting the auxiliary take-up to vary the strain exertedon the thread.

ALFRED B. FOWLER.

